Resto: Kumiko

Kumiko has risen from the ashes of what was once Bravo. Replacing an establishment that never really took off, four associates conceived a European izakaya.

Izakaya refers to those Tokyo party bars where a diverse crowd come to relax while having a drink and a snack. Rather than copying the formula, the owners have combined various influences. This is especially true of the decor, which is impressive: chairs found in old Hungarian cafes, large tables inspired by pieces discovered in Marfa (Texas), a pallet wood ceiling, lamps made of gas canister lids, and, in the basement, a magnificent petrified forest of driftwood.

The overall effect is intriguing. You feel like you have stepped into globalisation’s pantry, and indeed its kitchen, since you can eat there at any hour of the day. The approach is to provide food that is generally healthy, inexpensive, and served quickly, as proved by the excellent lunch we were treated to in less than half an hour.

For €9, it included a deliciously spiced miso soup, three flavoursome gyoza, and two onigiri. Onigiri are to the Japanese what sandwiches are to Belgians. They consist of a portion of rice wrapped in a triangle of sea weed, which has to be unwrapped in a very specific way. Having tasted the meatball and aubergine-tofu versions, we can confirm that they are as good as the ones served at Jiro, a former eatery in Sint-Stevens-Woluwe/Woluwe-Saint-Pierre which set the standard for us.

As for the drinks, there’s a wide range: from beers from the Duvel-Moortgat brewery to mescal. What’s more, you get the chance to “gamble” your order by rolling dice. Roll a double? Get a free drink. An even result? Halfprice. But beware of uneven results: the bill is doubled.

ma/lu/Mo > do/je/Th: 08.00 > 23.30
vr/ve/Fr, za/sa/Sa: 08.00 > 01.30
zo/di/Su: 10.00 > 22.30