Like pizza, Italian food is in danger of becoming junk food. With a concept designed to save it from this fate, Lasagna Tiramisu is about to open its third restaurant.
There’s a tendency, when it comes to fine cuisine, to be mistrustful of concept restaurants. That’s because they are reductive and often only interested in profitability. This one, however, is a success. As the name suggests, Lasagna Tiramisu has resolved to restore the reputation of…lasagnes and tiramisus. As we know, these two very nostalgic dishes are popular with manufacturers.
This is due to their low food cost and a layered structure that enables them to be mass produced. In lieu of this “ready-to-eat” model, this place decided to focus on artisanal production methods and a variety of versions.
The lasagnes cost between €13 and €15.50 (to eat in) and the choice of versions includes classic, aubergine, truffle, mixed vegetables, and capocollo (cured pork made using the cervical muscle of the pig). The tiramisus (€5 or €6 a portion) are available in classic, pistachio, hazelnut, and almond versions, among others. They also have an eatery near the European district and will shortly open a third in Maalbeek/ Maelbeek, but we went to the one near Kastelein/Châtelain to try out the formula.
There were a lot of things about it that we loved. First off, the fact that we were able to dine on the terrace, on Edelknaapstraat/rue du Page no less, in the middle of October, even if we have a clement autumn to thank for that. The service was also good, consisting of the founder, a top man.
The meal began with a platter of cheeses and cold meats (€20 for 2-3 people). It was remarkably fresh and showcased freshly sliced artisanal products, including lardo di Colonnata with truffle, Taleggio, ash-coated cheese, and spianata, among others. It was an absolute delight.
We were also pleased to find that the choice of drinks held up, with well-chosen wines, such as the wonderful organic Sicilian white Meridiano 12 by Gorghi Tondi (€28). Let’s just say we were in a generous mood for the next course. Sadly, it missed the mark.
Clearly lacking in seasoning, the lasagnes, of which we tasted the truffle, aubergine, and capocollo versions, did not impress. They were undoubtedly full of fresh ingredients, but that wasn’t enough to make the difference: the texture and flavour were nothing to sing and dance about.
As for the tiramisus, they were good and creamy, especially the pistachio one, but following the lasagne, the speciality seemed all the heavier, and we were no longer able to fully appreciate it. That’s a real pity.
> LASAGNA TIRAMISU
Edelknaapstraat 31 rue du Page, Elsene/Ixelles
ma/lu/Mo & wo/me/We 11 > 15.00 & 19 > 22.00
di/ma/Tu 11 > 15.00 & 18 > 22.00
do/je/Th & vr/ve/Fr 11 > 15.00 & 19 > 22.00
za/sa/Sa 12 > 16.30 & 19 > 22.30