Review

Resto: Amen

Michel Verlinden

27/09/2016

Also in:

Two-Michelin-star chef Pascal Devalkeneer has opened a second establishment. Despite appearing full of promise, it left us indifferent.

For those who don't know him, Pascal Devalkeneer and his Chalet de la Forêt represent the epitome of a certain type of cuisine in Brussels. We say "a certain type of cuisine" as it consists of a very particular dining experience, as defined by the old fogeys of the Michelin Guide.

Opulent settings, top-of-the-range ingredients, and obsequious service. One doesn't come here merely to enjoy a meal, but also to demonstrate, to everybody present, the social echelon from which one views the world. Just to be clear, there is nothing wrong with a restaurant owner occupying this niche, which requires a solid grounding and a commitment to excellence.

When we heard that Devalkeneer was opening a second establishment, we were beside ourselves. Finally, we would be granted access to this alchemist's talent. We were certain of this because he announced a place "without etiquette", an "ode to sincerity". We felt sure we would experience something intimate, fundamental, beyond appearances. On passing by the place, it appeared full of promise, the decor stripped back and free of ostentation. Dominated by pale wood and white, this marvellous setting has all the allure of a chapel, a sort of sublime and enchanting monastic cell.

Would the cuisine live up to these surroundings? To tell the truth, we were greatly disappointed. This disappointment was paradoxical because we couldn't find fault with either the starter we chose – impeccably flavoured and perfectly cooked sardine fillets, pan-seared, – or the main course – pollock loin served with Sardinian pasta and lemon confit, – or the dessert – an oven-roasted peach with olive oil and basil. We found no fault, except perhaps with the fact that this meal was priced at €71, an amount that we would be happy to spend on a meal, on condition that it provokes, stimulates, and excites the taste buds. However, despite the exceptional ingredients and irreproachable cooking, the meal left us completely indifferent.