Resto Philema: Not for tourists

The Greeks are known for their welcoming attitude towards those who come from elsewhere, but it has been nearly fatal for Greek cuisine. Greek food lost its way, by way of fluorescent pink tarama and fried squid. Fortunately, over the past few years, this situation has been changing.

A growing number of places offer dishes which reflect the generosity of this sunny country…rather than the greasy predilections of holiday-makers who lack an inclination towards
discovery.

Philema is among those establishments which are restoring Greece to its former glory. We could see this from the moment we walked in. Gone are the fake Doric columns
and ever-present white and blue façade; the look is contemporary. Lined with metal shelves covered with regional Greek products, the decor gives it the feel of a grocery. Dark
wooden chairs and pale tables contribute to an understated atmosphere.

Smiling and unprompted, the service lives up to the reputation of a people that loves nothing more than to trade and make connections. An appetiser was quickly placed on the table, consisting of a sesame mousse with yoghurt, combining freshness and a roasted taste. It was perfect. Thus filled with confidence, we delved into the menu: smoked aubergine caviar with peppers and walnuts (€8), Santorini split peas and octopus (€9), as well as a memorable tarama (€10), flavoured with mandarin oil and the famous “mastiha” from Chios, a mastic (resin) found only on the island. The main courses were also free of clichés, for instance a beef cheek (€16) or an exquisite lamb risotto (€18). The cherry on the cake was a magnificent bottle of white wine with citrus notes from the Gavalas winery in Santorini (€40).

Philema, chaussée de Waterloosesteenweg 437, Elsene/Ixelles, 02-344.58.76, di/ma/Tu > za/sa/Sa 12 > 22.30, zo/di/Su 12 > 15.00

Open:
di/ma/Tu > za/sa/Sa 12 > 22.30
zo/di/Su 12 > 15.00