review

Gaufres & Waffles: the gourmet version of a Brussels classic

© Saskia vanderstichele
| In an Alpine-style chalet, Gaufres & Waffles serves cones filled with squares of the Belgian speciality.
Onze score

These are difficult times for restaurants; it is only with imagination and good ideas that they can find a way to keep going. The proof can be seen in Ter Kamerenbos/Bois de la Cambre, where you can eat waffles like chips (fries).

We have mentioned Gaufres & Waffles in these pages before, an ingenious street food project developed by four clever associates: Michael Chiche, David Ghysels (Dinner in the Sky), Sébastien Mattagne, and above all, the latter’s father, the renowned chef Yves Mattagne. You may remember, it involved reinventing the famous Brussels waffle by using it as a base for original sweet and savoury dishes. Last summer, they applied this approach to creating a completely new take on the combination of tomato and mozzarella.

The good news is that the foursome did not throw in the towel once the cold set in. Instead, they racked their brains to come up with a range of winter snacks, in more of a take-away format than ever. On paper, we must admit that the concept made us a little uneasy because it combines all the current nostalgic trends. It consists of squares of waffle, cut up and served like fries in a recyclable paper cone.

This experience is being offered in Ter Kamerenbos/Bois de la Cambre by a little Alpine-style chalet with survivalist decor featuring palettes and an impressive brazier. We love the spaced-out tables where you eat standing up (no Covid, thank you) and the strings of fairy lights that create a warm atmosphere.

Stung by the cold, we opted for the Alpine option, a generous cone topped with…cheese fondue (€7.50). Garnished with little lardons and finely chopped chives, the dish was surprisingly light. We particularly enjoyed the contrasting textures: the smoothness of the cheese and the crunchiness of the waffle. We also loved the hint of white wine, which gave a freshness to the dish.

We could have followed it up with a version made with truffles (€7.50) or one with foie gras (same price) but we decided to be “sensible” and chose a sweet option. For €5.50, the “Brésilienne” cone warms the heart with its combination of coffee cream, caramel, and above all, a mixture of roasted hazelnuts and almonds. As a bonus, a genuinely delightful drink that makes a change from the usual glühwein: warm cider (€5) and a dash of dark rum with apple and cinnamon.

GAUFRES & WAFFLES
chemin du Croquetweg 1, Brussel/Bruxelles, www.gaufresandwaffles.be, Facebook: gaufresandwaffles
wo/me/We > zo/di/Su, 12 > 19.00

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