review

Pardon: the waffle reinvented

© Saskia Vanderstichele
Onze score

Saturated with sugar and industrially processed, from Liège or Brussels, the waffle has lost its soul. But not at Pardon.

For a long time, we did not even notice this discreet little spot due to the two iconic establishments located on the same street: the bar l'Ermitage and the pizzeria Standard. It is time to right this wrong. With its simple decor that combines a tiled counter, exposed brick, and slightly retro furniture, it is a very pleasant space.

In this beautiful May weather, however, the sixteen-seat terrasse is the place to be. It was lovely and sunny during our visit, one Friday at around 3 pm: the perfect spot for making the best of a nice day. Launched by an adorable couple, Pardon has a taste for high-quality ingredients, locally sourced produce, and well-made dishes. The place offers lunches – trout tartare made by Ondenval (€15), shredded beef (€15), or a skilfully made vegetable dish (€14) – and generously proportioned brunches, available in a vegan (€23.90), meat, or fish version (for the same price). You can also come here for afternoon tea, which is just what we did.

The concept is based on the waffle, which they have reinvented in terms of both texture and taste. The brunches also incorporate the same waffle. We tried the gaufre de Liège (€3.60), which is made here with 60% less sugar than usual. The result is an entirely different culinary experience. Biting into it, the texture was both firm and fluffy, a truly sensual and delectable mouthful. The version we chose was sprinkled with cocoa nibs of the highest quality – an ingredient supplied by the excellent brand Mike & Becky. We finished the dish off without becoming queasy, which is a first.

We even had room left over to try the pardons (€2.60 to €2.90 for the take-away version). These consist of miniature waffles containing a variety of irresistible pralines (hazelnut, pistachio) and inventive toppings (verbena, chocolate, and others). They can be washed down with a beautifully fresh “Healthy Infusion” (€3.90) made with apple, lemongrass, and fennel or a speciality coffee made with a V60 dripper (€4.60).

PARDON
Moskoustraat 36 rue de Moscou, Sint-Gillis/Saint-Gilles, 0479-16.40.17
ma/lu/Mo, vr/ve/Fr & za/sa/Sa, 10.30 > 17.30

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